Engine Accessories
Overview of the 16-Valve B230 Long Block Accessories
This is an overview of everything bolted to the 16-valve B230 long block, detailing the components and modifications we have chosen for this build.
Transmission and Drivetrain
We have decided to stick with the Volvo 5-speed gearbox despite its reputation for being fragile. If its a problem we will find out.
For this build, we are planning to upgrade to a high-quality LSD diff. The car already has new bushings throughout, keeping the sleeper look with relatively small tyres. The combination of these upgrades and a conservative tyre setup will hopefully help the gearbox survive.
The clutch setup includes a Yoshifab flywheel and clutch kit with an FX250 friction disc. This setup was intentional, better to wear out the clutch than destroy the gearbox.
The Intake Side
- Cam Angle Sensor: The distributor has been replaced with a Yoshifab cam angle sensor using a Mitsubishi 4G63-style pickup, compatible with most standalone ECUs. To make this work, we swapped the auxiliary shaft for one from a block-mounted distributor engine, this block originally had a head-mounted distributor and lacked the necessary gear. If you attempt this, ensure the shaft is straight and bearings are in good condition.
- PCV System: we removed the breather box and installed a billet plate from Yoshifab with dual -10AN fittings. These connect to a standalone catch can. The large internal oil drains between the head and block eliminate the need for additional rocker cover venting. We are using 400 series Speedflow push lock style fittings for the PCV vent connection. Dash 10 AN Hose is rated for oil and runs from the block fitting to our Nuke Performance catch can, which has a manual petcock drain routed under the car for easy emptying. This prevents condensation buildup from entering the sump and bearings.
- Catch Can Venting: Instead of running an open filter, we have routed the vent line back into the pre-turbo intake between the air filter and turbocharger. This prevents oil mist from venting into the engine bay and creates a slight vacuum to improve crankcase ventilation under load. The Nuke Performance catch can has high-quality baffling, so we do not expect oil contamination in the intake system.
- Sensors: we replaced the old coolant temperature sensor with a new Bosch unit for ECU calibration and retained the factory sensor for the cluster gauge.
The factory power steering pump remains in place for compatibility and simplicity.
Vacuum System & Boost Gauge: The intake manifold has vacuum fittings mounted underneath for a cleaner look. We installed an original Volvo 240 boost gauge, connected using a 6mm pneumatic PTFE tube routed through a bulkhead grommet. The connection is made using a 1/8" NPT to 6mm push-lock fitting, commonly found in pneumatic systems.
Boost Control & Fuel Pressure Regulator: Additional 1/8" NPT hose fittings were used for vacuum lines. One hose is dedicated to the wastegate and boost control solenoid, while another runs to the fuel pressure regulator and ECU map sensor.
Brake Booster Vacuum Line: The brake booster is supplied with vacuum via a 3/8" NPT to 3/8" hose tail fitting. We replaced the original hose, which showed signs of wear, with a heavy-duty truck air brake hose. While stiffer than a typical automotive hose, it is rated for vacuum and pressure, making it a reliable upgrade.
Timing Belt and Front-End Modifications
The 16-valve head has cam pulleys with a unique tooth profile, ss we use three identical pulleys from the 16v engines, including one for the auxiliary shaft. Yoshifab supplied a tensioner and idler pulley conversion and a Gates Racing timing belt, which unfortunately only comes in blue.
The crank gear is upgraded with a billet gear, a common improvement for high-performance engines. However, the thicker gear pushes the crank damper forward, misaligning the belts for the water pump, alternator, and power steering pump. we corrected this by designing and laser-cutting 2mm spacers for each pulley, ensuring proper alignment and preventing unnecessary wear.
We also modified the timing covers. The upper portion was removed entirely, but retained and trimmed the lower section to keep the timing marks for accurate ignition timing adjustments.
Exhaust Side and Oiling System
The exhaust side primarily houses the oiling system. We removed the original relocation kit and installed the factory Volvo sandwich plate with new O-rings. This plate includes an internal thermostat that feeds the oil cooler, this has been adapted to Dash 8 AN fittings, with 150-degree and 120-degree fittings directing the lines forward. I used 200 series Dash 8 braided hose to the Setrab oil cooler, mounted in front of the radiator grille.
We have converted the turbo oil feed to a Dash 4 AN banjo-style fitting to keep it close to the block. The oil feed line is a 200 series Dash 4 AN stainless steel braided hose, running from the banjo fitting at the block to the top of the turbo. A straight Dash 4 AN hose end is used at the bottom, and a 90-degree Dash 4 AN hose end is used at the top. We may add a heat shield to protect the line from excessive heat, but the high-temperature rating of the stainless steel braided hose should be adequate.
For the turbo drain, we are using a 100 series Dash 10 stainless steel braided Speedflow line. While a PTFE lining isn’t necessary, the Dash 10 size ensures proper flow. The press-in fitting on the block is a Dash 10 AN steel fitting, and we’re using a 90-degree 100 series Speedflow fitting at the bottom of the turbo, along with a 45-degree fitting to keep the hose close to the block.
We are still finalizing the water feed and return setup for the turbo.
For the wastegate, we are using Turbosmart reinforced 6mm vacuum hose with spring clamps. These clamps provide better tension than traditional hose clips or cable ties, ensuring a secure connection.
Engine Mounts
We opted for factory-style engine mounts in the original location, but we were surprised by the lack of aftermarket options for Volvos. The standard Volvo mounts are very soft, and with the power level we’re targeting, we wanted a more robust solution to avoid premature failure. We went with the Classic Swede Extra Strong 240 engine mount set. We’re hopeful these mounts will stand up better than the OEM rubber ones.
Conclusion
This setup sums up the long block and its accessories. Hopefully this gives you an insight into what’s mounted to the engine and how the components come together. In a future post, we will discuss vacuum control and setting up the new ECU. Stay tuned for more updates!